A chutney is usually treated as a condiment, which undersells what a ground base of roasted lentils or seeds actually contributes to a plate.

The six bases

Roasted chana dal, urad dal, peanut, sesame, flax and pumpkin seed each give a distinct texture and between six and nine grams of protein per generous spoon.

All six follow the same method: dry-roast, cool completely, grind with salt and chilli, then loosen with tamarind or lime rather than water so they keep longer.

Refrigerated in a clean jar they hold for a week, and every one of them improves on the second day.